Sunday, November 12, 2017

Canyon Endurace: Selle Italia SLR Titanium Saddle

On the Canyon Endurace bike, the stock Fizik Aliante R3 saddle is a pretty nice saddle. Once the saddle angle has been adjusted properly, it gives great support when riding in the hoods or drops. However, due to the high upsweep of the saddle at the tail end, it gets in the way when I try to sit up straight to hold the top of the handlebar. It is great for riding in the hoods, but not so when sitting up.

The Canyon Endurace comes with a nice integrated handlebar + stem, which is very comfortable to hold at the top, as it is flat and wide which is a good place to rest the palms on. As such, I find myself using the top of the handlebar more often then on other drop bar bikes. Therefore, I need to change the saddle to enable me to sit up comfortably.

On the Merida Scultura 5000 and Java Freccia, I have used the Selle Italia SLR Kit Carbonio Flow saddle, which is both lightweight and comfortable. However, on this Canyon bike, the VCLS seatpost saddle clamp has a side clamping design, which makes it unsuitable for use with carbon saddle rails.

The next lightest and still comfortable saddle would be the SLR Titanium version that has titanium rails instead of carbon rails. This will make it suitable for the side clamping design of the VCLS seatpost. Also, the VCLS seatpost has saddle clamp for round rails, which is also the type that is on the SLR Titanium.

Selle Italia SLR Titanium saddle

Claimed weight is 145 grams, which is just 20 grams more than the SLR Kit Carbonio Flow with carbon rails.

Best of all, it has a red coloured version that seems to match the frame colour quite closely!

Titanium rails on this saddle for lightweight

Simple and clean design at the bottom, with a thin shell to support the thin fabric

Weighs just 141 grams, which is also very lightweight

The red colour on the saddle matches the Kerosene Red of the frame quite closely, with a roughly 90% match!

Due to the setback of this seatpost, I have to set the saddle all the way to the front to get the correct fore-aft saddle position. I don't see an issue since the weight is mostly at the back of the saddle.

New saddle installed on the bike! Lightweight and also matches the frame colour.

With this new saddle, it feels the same as the Merida and Java bikes which also have a very similarly-shaped Selle Italia saddle. Although there is no cutout in the middle of this saddle, it feels fine. Compared to the Fizik Aliante R3, this saddle is very flat, and allows me to sit up straight without being blocked by the tail end of the saddle.

Saturday, November 4, 2017

Dahon Vitesse: 2x10 Speed Flat Handlebar Setup

The Dahon Vitesse has come a long way since I started being interested in folding bikes. From the my first Dahon folding bike, the Dahon Boardwalk, to this Dahon Vitesse, I have learnt so much about folding bikes from modifying these two bikes.

Previously, the Dahon Vitesse had a 2x10 speed bullhorn bar setup, which was great for touring or fast riding due to the aerodynamic riding posture. Now, the focus has changed to just normal recreational riding, which means that the bullhorn bars will be removed to get a more compact fold and simpler setup.

This means that the handlebar area and shifters will be changed, while the drivetrain components such as the rear derailleur, front derailleur, cassette, chain, and crankset will remain. At the same time, I will service the bike by cleaning up the components.

One advantage of this setup is that I can revert to using normal V brakes, instead of the long arm caliper brakes which do not give very good braking power.

Using Tiagra 4600 2x10 speed shifters and brake levers for this flat handlebar setup

LitePro stem is still there to mate the flat handlebar to the T type handlepost

Kickstand and mudguards will remain on the bike as they are still very useful

Changed back to normal V brakes for simple setup and good braking function

Same Shimano 105 drivetrain components, no upgrade required

Colour scheme is generally silver and black. Only stock components are the frame, fork and seatpost.

Still a smart looking bike with Shimano 2x10 speed road components

With a flat handlebar, now it folds compactly as well! A definite plus for storage.

With this restoration, this Dahon Vitesse rides as well as a new bike again! Gear changing is smooth and accurate with good braking power. Rolling resistance is minimised with the smooth rolling PZ Racing wheelset, while the Marathon Racer tires are comfortable yet fast.

Sunday, October 29, 2017

Java Freccia Carbon Mini Velo: Part 8 - Panaracer Minits Lite Tires

The Java Freccia carbon mini velo has a fast set of tires, the Schwalbe One 451 tires. It is a narrow set of tires, with a width of just 23mm. This was chosen partly due to the target of building a super lightweight mini velo, which meant that narrower tires are preferred due to the lower weight.

However, one downside of these set of tires is the need to pump them to high pressures. With a maximum tire pressure of 160 PSI, it is necessary to pump these tires to 120-130 PSI for a good ride. Any lower and the tire feels kind of wobbly. At this high pressure, the ride is quite harsh compared to wider tires.

After I recently got the Canyon Endurace, with the comfortably wide 28mm tires, these narrow 23mm tires feel even more harsh in comparison. Besides, I am now convinced that wider tires can also be just as fast. With this in mind, I decided to change to wider tires for more comfort on the Java Freccia carbon mini velo. Note that the tire choice and tire pressure is a much bigger factor in ride comfort than frame material. Therefore, a stiff, harsh frame with a good set of tires at a comfortable pressure will always ride more smoothly than a "forgiving" steel or titanium frame with overly stiff tires.

While searching for suitable 451 tires that are wider, I found that the selection of wider 451 tires is quite limited! For Schwalbe, it is mainly the Durano which has a width of 28mm. However, it is only available in wire bead type which is heavier and also non folding. Tires with wire bead can be more difficult to install onto the rim as compared to those with a folding bead.

Finally, I decided to get the Panaracer Minits Lite 451 tires, which has a width of 28mm. Although these are heavier than the 23mm wide Schwalbe One tires, my priority is now on improving the ride comfort on the mini velo.

These tires are about SGD 35 each from Taobao, which is a good price for tires that are Made in Japan. Of course, don't forget to order suitable inner tubes too. The Schwalbe SV7B inner tubes cannot be used for these new tires as those are only for the narrower tires.

Panaracer Minits Lite 28-451 tires. Hopefully they will give a more comfortable ride!

Close up look at the tire

This tire weighs 201 grams. The previous Schwalbe One tires weighed 162 grams each.

Wider Schwalbe SV7A inner tubes to match the wider tires. Fits a wide variety of tire sizes as shown on the box.

Can even be used for 37mm wide 451 tires!

This SV7A inner tube weighs 98 grams, as compared to the SV7B inner tube that weighs 78 grams each.

Switching to these wider tires and inner tubes will increase the weight of the bike by about 120 grams. When lighter weight is the priority, this makes a difference. However, when comfort is now the priority, the slightly heavier weight is acceptable.

Width of Schwalbe One 23-451 tires was actually about 23.6mm. Quite close to the advertised width of 23mm.

Width of Panaracer Minits Lite 28-451 tires on the same rim gives a tire width of 26.7mm. This is less than the advertised width of 28mm.

Strangely, the actual tire width of the 28mm Panaracer tires is narrower than the specified width. This is uncommon as the actual width is usually wider than the advertised width. For example, the actual width of the Continental Grand Prix 4 Season tires on the Avanti Inc 3 was wider than the specified 28mm width, while the Continental GP4000 tires on the Canyon Endurace was also wider than the specified 28mm width. Of course, this depends on the rim width, but the general trend is for the actual tire width to be wider than the specified tire width.

Comparing the tire width and surface side by side. The new Panaracer tires at the bottom is only slightly wider by about 3mm.

I was expecting the Panaracer tires to be wider by about 5mm, as the width was changed from 23mm to 28mm. However, the increase is less than what I expected. Instead of being bothered by the tire width, I decided to pay more attention to the tire pressure instead.

With the new Panaracer tires, the maximum tire pressure is 100 PSI. This is much more manageable, as I can pump the tires to about 80-90 PSI instead of 120-130 PSI. This pressure is also achievable by a hand pump, as compared to 120 PSI which is very difficult to reach.

New Panaracer tires installed on the Java Freccia mini velo! No big change in appearance.

Tire specifications printed clearly on the side wall.

Same new tire on the rear wheel.

As shown previously, there is plenty of clearance between the tire and the brake calipers. Therefore, changing from 23mm to 28mm (actual 26mm) tires is not an issue.

Plenty of tire clearance with the rear brake caliper

Also plenty of tire clearance with the front brake caliper

One potential problem with these new Panaracer tires is that it seems to pick up more debris from the ground. Hopefully this is just due to the new tire surface, and not pose an issue later on.

Java Freccia carbon mini velo with the new Panaracer Minits Lite 28-451 tires installed! Almost no change in appearance.

After test riding the bike with the new tires, I still need some time to get used to the different riding feeling. Compared to the previous tires, it feels significantly smoother, which causes me to keep checking if I got a puncture or not. Of course, there is no puncture, the difference is due to the more compliant tires which absorbs more vibration from the ground.

At the beginning, the new wider tires may feel slower, as you feel less vibration while riding. However, the speedometer does not lie and still shows a good speed even though there is less vibration. What we need to get used to and understand is that more vibrations does not equal to more speed.

Overall, this is a good upgrade as it reduces the harshness of the previous high pressure tires. Although there is some weight increase, this is OK for me as it is still a lightweight bike, and it still rolls fast with more comfort!

Sunday, October 22, 2017

Brompton M6R: How to Remove and Install Rear Wheel

Undoubtedly, one of the problems that Brompton riders fear most is a rear wheel puncture. In order to remove the rear wheel to change the inner tube, many parts such as the chain tensioner and the gear shifting mechanism need to be disassembled. After that, they have to be assembled properly to ensure correct operation.

This can be a daunting task, and I did not have a good idea how to do it. Luckily, there are some instructional videos on Youtube that are helpful for guiding the novice through the steps. I shall attempt to summarize all the steps into easy-to-understand instructions.

As with all bicycle repairs, it is important to try them out at home, so that you can feel for yourself how everything works. If you only know in theory, and have not tried it out hands-on, you are unlikely to make a successful repair by the roadside.

Now, let's say you have a rear wheel puncture, first stop safely by the roadside, and see if you have these items with you.
1) Hand pump or CO2 cartridge
2) Inner tube or patch kit
3) Tire levers
4) Size 15 wrench

If you have all of these items, congratulations! You can now attempt to change the inner tube. If any of these 4 items are missing, then your only choice is to call for a cab or a friend to rescue you.

Next, put your Brompton into the "working position". If you have a mudguard or rear rack on the Brompton, you can put the bike into the position as shown below, resting on the back of the saddle. If you have a saddle bag or rear light mounted behind the saddle, you might need to remove it.

Working position for the Brompton with rear rack, so that the rear wheel can be removed easily. Ensure that the bike is stable as handlebar movement may cause the bike to tip over.

In this position, you are free to spin the rear wheel or remove it.

Next, spin the cranks and set the shifters to release all cable tension. This means that on the right side 3 speed shifter, set to gear 3, while on the left side 2 speed shifter, set to +. In other words, both shifter levers should be moved all the way inwards.

After that is done, it is time to disassemble the Indicator Chain and the chain tensioner.

To remove the Indicator Chain, first loosen the locknut and then unscrew the barrel so that it is disconnected from the inner cable.

Next, spin the Indicator chain anti-clockwise to unscrew it from the push rod inside the internal hub.

If done correctly, the Indicator Chain can be removed from the hub. Put it to one side and do not lose it!

At this point, remove the chain from the tension pulley of the chain tensioner. To do so, move the tensioner arm so that there is slack on the chain, then slide it sideways off the pulley. After that, you can remove the chain tensioner unit from the frame.

Take the size 15 wrench and loosen the outer axle nut.

Remove the outer axle nut and washer completely from the axle, and this is what you will see.

With the chain tensioner unit removed, this is what you see. There is one more inner axle nut on the drive side that clamps the rear wheel within the dropouts.

Remove the inner axle nut and the non-turn washer from the drive side of the rear wheel. Here are all the parts (chain tensioner not shown) from the drive side of the bike.

Also remove the axle nut and non-turn washer from the non-drive side of the rear wheel.

If you are removing all these small parts out on the road, it is easy for you to lose them in the grass, or have them roll off into the drain. Keep them properly in your pockets or a bag, or have a friend hold them for you.

With the axle nuts on both sides of the rear wheel removed, it is now possible to remove the rear wheel.

If your rear wheel has been punctured, the tire will already be deflated, and you can slide the rear wheel out between the brake pads easily. However, if you are like me, just practicing at home, then you will need to deflate the rear tire.

Some guides will instruct you to undo the cable fixing bolt on the rear caliper brake (using size 10 wrench), in order to open up the brake pads for the rear wheel to come out. However, I found that with the stock Brompton tires which are rather wide, undoing this cable fixing bolt does not open the brake pads far enough to clear the tire. This might work for slim tires, but in the end I had to deflate the tire to remove the rear wheel.

Size 10 wrench needed to loosen this cable fixing bolt on the rear caliper brake.

Should you undo this cable fixing bolt? My recommendation is not to loosen it, as it is hard to clamp the brake inner cable properly afterwards.

My recommendation is not to loosen the cable fixing bolt on the rear caliper brake. Instead, deflate the tire to remove the rear wheel. It will save you time and trouble as you will not need to reassemble the rear brake cable after that.

As said earlier, loosening the rear brake cable fixing bolt does not open the brake pads wide enough to clear the inflated tires, so don't bother.

With that, the rear wheel can be removed! After that, it is just the standard way of changing the inner tube. Although the whole process can seem tedious, it is actually quite easy once you are familiar with the steps.

Other than learning how to remove and install the Brompton rear wheel, my other objective is to change the inner tube and rim tape for the Brompton. The stock Brompton tubes use Schrader valves, and I want to change them to Presta valves to be common with all my other bikes. This makes it easier to pump all the inner tubes without having to switch between Schrader and Presta pump heads.

Stock rim tape on the Brompton wheel. They are actually using rim tape for 18" wheels, with a ETRTO size of 355.

As some of you may already know, the 16" on the Brompton is actually closer to 18". 16" wheels come mainly in two sizes, ETRTO 305 and 349. These numbers refer to the external diameter of the rims.

Dahon Curve D3 uses 16" wheels with rim diameter of 305mm, while Brompton uses 16" wheels with rim diameter of 349mm. Yes this is confusing, but what is means is that Brompton wheels are actually almost 18" in size. Comparing 16" 349 and 18" 355, these two sizes are almost the same, which means that rim tape and inner tubes can be used interchangeably without issues. However, tires are not interchangeable as the diameter difference of 6mm is too big for the tires to seat properly on the rim, if the wrong size is used.

Stock plastic rim tape removed. Double walled rim, with a deep center channel. This makes installing or removing tires easier.

Replacement Schwalbe No.4 inner tubes with Presta valves, and Velox cloth rim tape to withstand high pressure.

16mm wide rim tape is OK as it can cover the rim holes. Wider rim tape will also fit but it will make installing the tires more difficult.

With the inner tube and rim tape changed, and the tire reinstalled, the next step is to put the rear wheel back into the frame. At this stage, do not inflate the tire fully yet! Remember, we need to fit the deflated tire back through the brake pads first.

Once the rear wheel is back in the frame, you can reinstall the non-turn washers and the axle nuts on both sides. Note that the non-turn washer has a long leg and a short leg. The long leg goes into the hole on the frame, while the short leg will rest on the axle inside the dropout slot. Install it wrongly and you will deform the washer or the frame when you tighten the axle nuts. From what I see, the non-turn washers and inner axle nuts are the same for the left and right sides.

Ensure that the non-turn washers are installed in the correct orientation

Now comes the tricky part, putting back the chain tensioner. I was not following any guide at this point, as I was confident of putting everything back together properly.

What I did was to put the chain over the idler pulley of the chain tensioner...

...then put the chain onto the tension pulley! As you can see, the chain path is totally wrong as it did not run along the idler pulley at all. Negative demonstration.

The correct way is to first place the chain in between the idler pulley (shown here) and the sprocket, during fitting of the chain tensioner unit.

If done correctly, the chain tensioner unit will sit flush against the frame, with almost no gap between the sprocket and the chain tensioner. Reinstall the outer axle nut to fix the chain tensioner to the frame.

Next, loop the chain around the other pulley by moving the tensioner arm. For the correct layout, refer to the second picture above.

Next, take the Indicator Chain and insert it through the hole as shown here.

This is another tricky part as I had to take a flexible chain, and try to rotate it so that the threads will engage the push rod inside the hub. For a good 10 minutes, I was trying to rotate the Indicator Chain so that it will thread into the push rod inside, but it just could not engage. Suddenly I realised that I was rotating it the wrong way, no wonder the threads could not engage. The correct way is to rotate the Indicator Chain in the clockwise direction, to that the threads at the end of the Indicator Chain can thread into the push rod at the inside of the hub.

Thread it fully into the push rod. After that, connect the barrel located at the other end of the Indicator Chain to the inner cable. How much to screw in the barrel will be determined by the position of the Indicator Chain rod in the next step.

Shift the right side shifter (3 speed) to the second gear, as this is where the internal hub will be adjusted. When in gear 2, the shoulder of the rod should protrude out from the end of the axle by around 1mm as shown. This can be seen when looking through the side holes of the outer axle nut.

Shoulder of the rod is protruding from the end of the axle by about 1mm, which is the ideal setting.

Depending on whether the rod is protruding too much or too little, adjust the barrel on the Indicator Chain to move it. Remember, your right side shifter must be in gear 2 when making this adjustment.

Take a bit of time to get this adjustment correct, in order to ensure proper shifting performance and avoid gear skipping issues. Once satisfied, turn the locknut on the Indicator Chain to lock the setting.

With that, the rear wheel has been installed and the gear adjustment done! For the first timer, this is not easy as there are many intricate steps involved. I strongly suggest practicing at home at your own time, as what I have done, as hands on practice is always much better than just knowing the theory. The final step is to inflate the rear tire, and you are ready to go! All these should take around 15 mins with practice.

After trying it for myself, I find that this is actually not too difficult. The challenging part is to make sure not to lose all the small parts that you will need to remove, but the actual steps are quite easy to follow. Hopefully this can give you the confidence and knowledge to practice on your own, and not be afraid of a rear wheel puncture on the Brompton!